Step 1: The call and the inspection
When you call us, a specialist asks what you are seeing and where you live, then connects you with an independent contractor who serves your ZIP code. The contractor schedules an inspection, which usually takes an hour or two. Expect them to walk around the outside, look at grading and drainage, check cracks in brick, block or stucco, test doors and windows inside, and often measure floor elevations with a digital level. For basements and crawl spaces, they look at walls, beams, posts and moisture.
Before the visit, write down when you first noticed each problem and gather any past repair records, warranties and water bills. Photos of cracks with a ruler help show change over time.
Step 2: The repair plan and quote
A good quote explains the cause, not just the damage. It should include:
- What is moving and why (settlement, heave, wall pressure, moisture)
- The repair method, with a sketch showing pier, anchor or brace locations
- Materials and system (for example pier type)
- Engineering, permit, plumbing tests and restoration, included or not
- Price, payment schedule and start date
- Warranty terms in writing
The FTC recommends getting written estimates from several firms and making sure the contract includes a thorough description of the work, start and completion dates, total cost, the payment schedule and any warranties. See foundation repair warranties.
Step 3: Engineering and permits
Many cities require a permit for foundation repair and some require an engineer’s letter and drawings. The engineer may visit, review the contractor’s plan or design their own. This step can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks depending on the city and the engineer’s schedule. Local rules for many of our regions are on the regional pages, for example Houston, Fort Worth, North Jersey and Washington, DC.
Step 4: Preparing your home
- Clear a path along the walls where work will happen, inside and out.
- Move furniture, rugs and valuables away from interior pier locations.
- Take down pictures and fragile items on walls that may move during lifting.
- Mark sprinkler heads, lighting and utility lines near the work area.
- Arrange for pets and parking.
Step 5: Repair day(s)
For exterior piers, the crew digs small pits next to the foundation at each pier location, installs brackets and drives or screws piers down, then lifts the house in small steps while watching doors, cracks and levels. Interior piers mean cutting through the slab. For bowing walls, crews install straps, braces or anchors, which may involve small holes in the yard. Many pier jobs on an average home take a few days once work starts; larger jobs take longer. Most homeowners stay in the house.
During lifting, some cracks close and others may open; doors may need adjusting. That is normal and should be discussed before work starts.
Step 6: Cleanup and plumbing checks
Pits are backfilled, concrete patched and landscaping restored to the extent the contract says. On slab homes, a plumbing test after lifting is common, because movement can stress pipes. If a leak is found, fix it before the soil gets saturated. See slab leaks and foundation damage.
Step 7: Final inspection and paperwork
Where a permit was pulled, the city does a final inspection. The engineer, if involved, issues a final letter. You should receive:
- Final elevation survey or measurements
- Pier log with depths and pressures or torque, if piers were installed
- Engineer’s final letter
- Permit sign-off
- Warranty document with transfer instructions
Keep them together; they matter for future claims and when you sell.
Typical timeline
| Step | Typical time |
|---|---|
| Inspection | 1–2 hours, usually within days of calling |
| Quote | Same day to about a week |
| Engineering and permit | A few days to a few weeks |
| Repair work | Often a few days for an average pier job |
| Final inspection and letter | Days to weeks after work |
Timing varies by region, season and the size of the job. Ask for a written schedule.
How to compare quotes fairly
Quotes for the same house can look very different. Put them side by side and compare the diagnosis (do they agree on what is moving?), the method and number of piers or anchors, what is included (engineering, permit, plumbing tests, restoration), the warranty and the payment schedule. A much lower price often means fewer piers, no engineering or no restoration. Ask each contractor to explain differences rather than simply choosing the cheapest.
Payment and deposits
Payment schedules vary, but large up-front payments are a warning sign in any home improvement project, and some states limit deposits by law. The FTC advises against paying in full up front and against cash-only deals. A common structure is a modest deposit, a payment when work starts or materials arrive, and the balance after completion and inspection.
What if something goes wrong?
If the contractor finds something unexpected, such as a plumbing leak, rotted framing or a pier that will not reach target depth, they should stop and explain the change in writing before continuing. Written change orders with prices protect both sides. If you are unhappy with the work, document it with photos, raise it in writing with the contractor first, and refer to your contract and warranty. State contractor boards and consumer protection offices can help when a licensed contractor does not respond.
If you are selling soon
If you plan to sell within a year or two, tell the contractor. Buyers and their inspectors in most markets look for foundation repairs, and a permitted repair with an engineer’s final letter, a pier log and a transferable warranty usually makes those conversations easier. Many states, including Texas with its Seller’s Disclosure Notice, require sellers to disclose known foundation problems and repairs. Keep all documents together and give copies to your agent. See buying a house with foundation problems for what buyers will ask.
After the repair
Patch and paint cosmetic cracks after a few weeks, once the house has settled into its new position. Keep gutters, downspouts and grading in good shape, and in clay regions keep soil moisture even; see foundation watering in Texas. Photograph walls once a year so you can compare.